"It was with this town that Brazil, and one could legitimately say South America, began. Here was erected the first pillar of great cultural spanning the ocean. It was here, from African, American, and European substance, that the new and still-fermenting mixture came into existence."
- Stefan Zweig, writing of Salvador, in 'Brazil, Land of the Future', 1941
A trip to Salvador seems to be a trip to the home of Brazil. As with any trip home, it feels familiar no matter how long and far away you've been. Home is rarely perfect, but that's how we like it, and Salvador is no exception. For those of us who spend time living in modern Brazil, it's a recognizable place to be, the spring from which the river of Order and Progress has run.
The drive up to Praia do Forte, up the coast from Salvador, was essentially the vision of Brazil for the foreigner. A road ran inland from a seamless white beach, rowed with palms which swayed softly against an azure backdrop. If you asked the average American to imagine what the whole of Brazil looked like, they'd have described this section of the coast. It's stunning, but overwhelming, because it doesn't stop. It's a tropical island with 1000 miles of coastline ...
Salvador itself is much like other Brazilian cities. It is vaster than expected, and mostly slightly worn concrete. But, unlike the concrete jungle in which I live, Salvador boasted an enormous colonial town which has been preserved, and recently renovated. It is a remarkable bit of foresight from its citizens, who could share some tips to Paulistanos about city preservation.
Salvador was long on my list of places to visit, and I'm certainly glad I made it there. I'm also glad I waited so long, because knowing the rest of Brazil made a trip to Salvador a trip home to the familiar, the beginning of it all.
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